How did an obscure tribal sport from precolonial Hawaii—one that was nearly eliminated by Christian missionaries—jump oceans to California and Australia? And how did it become such a worldwide passion, even in places where the surf may be excellent but the society is highly conservative or superstitious about the sea?
In this brilliantly written travel adventure, journalist (and surfer) Michael Scott Moore visits unlikely surfing destinations—Israel and the Gaza Strip, West Africa, Great Britain, Germany, Indonesia, Japan, Cuba, and Morocco—to find out.
Whether he is connecting eccentric surf legend Doc Paskowitz to the Arab-Israeli conflict, trying to deconstruct the terrorist bombing in a nightclub in Bali, or being chased by the German police while surfing a river break in Berlin, Moore masterfully weaves together politics, culture, history, and surfing to create a book like no other.
'Moore and a robust wet suit have boldly gone where only serious and often seriously unhinged dudes have gone before, mapping out a fresh, unexpected cartography of the waves...what he has done, subtly and beguilingly, is write a book about surfing that often is not really about surfing but about simply being alive.' New York Times
| ISBN | 9781609611408 |
|---|---|
| Author | Michael Scott Moore |
| Translator | No |
| Publisher | Rodale Press |
| Cover Type | Paperback |
| Details | Paperback: 336 pages Publisher: Rodale Press (24 May 2011) Language English ISBN-10: 1609611403 ISBN-13: 9781609611408 Product Dimensions: 21.8 x 14.4 x 2.2 cm |
| Related SKUs | N/A |